Any deep dive into just how Audemars Piguet's Code 11. 59 series continues to develop
Audemars Piguet's Code 11. 59 collection was given birth to in 2019 with a bible-sized blast. Thirteen watches as a whole. Six different sub-series, coming from three-hand with date to be able to minute repeater. Three brand new in-house movements. A whole fresh case. And over 500 feedback on HODINKEE's original opening post. The explosions were being heard all over the world, but not totally welcome.
There is so much to do that day, along with honestly too much to form some sort of coherent opinion right away. The most prestigious and oldest manufacturers in Swiss watchmaking features launched a brand new collection unconnected to the company's flagship Royal Oak. For better or perhaps worse, Audemars Piguet will be the Royal Oak, and the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet.
So if difficult the Royal Oak, the actual heck is Code 11. 59? Three years after having a difficult debut, it feels such as Code 11. 59 line is finally starting to locate its sweet spot. Listed here are three steps Audemars Piguet has taken to achieve this goal.
Code 11. 59 is inherently complex Much of the negative rhetoric around Code 11. 59 offers focused on the time and time of Code 11. fifty nine, the simplest entry-level model from the series, with a very bad execution. Granted, the watch won't look much better today, nevertheless it's also never been the actual hero of the collection.
There's a reason the particular AP has released so many different editions of Code 11. fifty nine -- it's to demonstrate the prospects of the case profile as the residence of complications. Focusing on several hands completely misses the purpose and, as a result, many skip the biggest news of the Program code 11. 59 launch (development of a new in-house built-in automatic chronograph movement, trascendencia 4400, AP's first under one building chronograph). Yes, it's AP's fault to include it inside initial batch, but is actually understandable that it wants to deliver more affordable execution to market.
Audemars Piguet provides slowly corrected its beginning missteps. I don't recollect when it last introduced the newest third-hand code 11. fifty nine reference to the market, and AP has been experimenting with new complexity and new formats intended for existing complex models. Look into the big news I coated earlier this week - typically the Associated Press released 3 different Code 11. fifty nine models that, in my opinion, are a few of the best looking examples but.
There's a brand-new pair of flying tourbillon versions that aren't just clear containers with tourbillons within them, they feature details much like the inky dials made of reliable onyx and aesthetic adjustments like no numerals utilized. Don't overlook the skeleton type, which highlights the outrageous symmetrical movement architecture furnished to the highest standards inside of. (Did I mention often the crazy shade of orange on the bridge? Yes. I do believe it's pretty sweet. )
The same mad symmetry is found in the activity layout of the Code 14. 59 Flying Tourbillon Time counter, a watch beast with around the movement execution and flyback chronograph functions.
There's no Code 11. fifty nine Grande Sonnerie this time around (the AP did it in 2020), but surprisingly these seem a lot more complete than the considerably ordinary lacquered dials around the first Code 11. fifty nine watches. Yes, both the Soaring Tourbillon and the Skeleton Traveling Tourbillon were included in the 1st Code 11. 59 types in 2019 (the Crossbreed Tourbillon Chronograph also became a member of the collection in 2020), nevertheless the execution has only held it's place in the past three years improved. After all, come on, how can you not rubbish over the wild double sculpt bridges and crazy detail perspective in the Code 13. 59 Flying Tourbillon Stop-watch? If it came from an independent facilities in the Vallée de Joux, collectors would politely fall into line around the block.
Mixed materials bring the best code 11. 59 The solid onyx face on the latest Code eleven. 59 flying tourbillon can be the main material of the about three reference materials I taken care of last Wednesday, but the most crucial material in all three products is ceramic. One of the great things about the two-part Code 11. 59 case design the Associated Press swept up a couple of years ago was the ability to make use of two different types of materials in a watch.
The entire group new Code 11. fifty nine references use an octagonal inside ceramic case (Code 11. 59's only reference to the actual Royal Oak), enclosed simply by 18k white gold or rose gold colored lug cages. The result is interesting aesthetically, creating an unexpected two-tone effect through the application of a new superhard inner ceramic scenario that protects the mobility and the precious metal bezel, lugs and caseback.
Two of the three new Code 11. 59 watches introduced last week feature a black hard inner case, but the Traveling by air Tourbillon Openworked features a vivid blue ceramic inner situation, using the same blue fine ceramic craftsmanship as the Royal Oak Blue ceramic Danny him self last week Experience the perpetual appointments. Colored ceramics are more hard to achieve than black and white ceramics; it wasn't until the first 2010s that sintering functions were figured out to achieve shades like blue, red in addition to green. Of course , these intrinsic shells are all hand-decorated, using a satin-brushed central area as well as polished chamfers.
While AP does enhance the ceramic material alone, it works with suppliers to make the material. (Not surprising-few Europe watch brands make their particular ceramics. All I know regarding are Rolex, and maybe Échappée. ) AP works with a business called Bangerter, which works with a combination of zirconia powder and also a an undisclosed adhesive. Typically the binder is removed ahead of the sintering process begins, although after the five-axis CNC equipment has shaped the special octagonal inner shell. Often the blue shade (and hardness) of the ceramic material may eventually appear when heated up to about 1, 500 degrees Celsius.
Well, Audemars Piguet and Bangerter seem to be capable of withstand the heat.
color is king The other day, after the launch of the completely new Code 11. 59 unit, I spoke with some key members of the Audemars Piguet team and they discussed a selection of their processes. As it turns out, shade selection is often one of the ultimate stages of product development, nonetheless it goes hand-in-hand with a watch's specific material selection. As soon as the complexity and materials are already determined, the colors of the watch dial, case and movement parts are all taken into account. " You can find two ways to color supplies, " a member of the AP team told me. “You can also add a layer to it, you can also go into the material itself. ” For example , the bright pink bridges on the self-winding bones tourbillon are made of titanium since it is easier to apply a specific atomic layer deposition (ALD) method, which provides vivid hues.
In the new Computer code 11. 59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, the combination of dark-colored ceramic and 18k rose gold colored creates a unique two-tone result that is ultimately an pleasantly smart move as well. As opposed to the more traditional two-tone design and style approach that may seem out dated, the ultra-clean black porcelain surrounded by a precious metal circumstance feels unexpectedly modern, boosting the visual effect of the skeletonized lugs and interior octagonal case.
This may not Audemars Piguet's first knowledge in a two-tone world : far from it. (However, so that you can reflect history fully and also accurately, there are very few antique Audemars Piguet complication designer watches. Audemars Piguet is said to possess produced a total of ten two-tone complication watches inside three years between 1882 along with 1969. Oak before it is debut. ) The first huge Code 11. 50 good results story was actually the two-tone skeleton tourbillon that AP donated to the Only Watch charitable organization auction in 2019 last but not least sold for an impressive CHF 1 million, the most available One of the most expensive AP wristwatches at auction. The achievements of this unique piece undoubtedly foreshadows the latest Code 10. 59 release: all three designs feature the two-tone, two-material combination first deployed of them costing only Watch.
Nowadays, Royal Oak is known to get having a plethora of artistic variants to choose from, but it had taken the company decades to really commence experimenting with octagonal shapes in addition to textured-finish dial finishes. However from the jet black minimalism of the onyx dial Codes 11. 59 Flying Tourbillon to the electric blue highlights on the bridges, we failed to hesitate to expand the particular Code 11. 59's collection to be as wide-ranging as you possibly can. New skeleton flying tourbillon.
Something informs me that by the time 2069 occurs, we won't be celebrating Computer 11. 59's 50th house warming in the same way that the entire enjoy industry has recognized typically the Royal Oak this year through the Golden Jubilee. Code 14. 59 is definitely not a Noble Oak, but that doesn't suggest it's a failure as a manufacturer product line, or even that it deserves the identical level of high criticism we all saw when it launched several years ago.
A whole lot can change in three years. While Code 11. 59 turned out, Baselworld and SIHH ended up still around. There's no global outbreak to consider, and older, antique AP series like Millenary and Jules Audemars are located in the recent rearview mirror. I am aware I've changed a lot within the last three years, and while I'm unwilling to dictate human nature to look at brands, I think AP could have learned from the distracting concerns of the original Code 13. 59 release and is today able to focus at its best value.
After all, often the Code 11. 59 set caused such a stir with first debuted, and its stable, incremental improvements are only fittingly under the spotlight.